There are beautiful roses in Kivik, a charming fishing village located in Skane, the southernmost county in Sweden. So beautiful that they don’t even look real! That’s because Sweden can be a bit rainy and then sunny and then rainy again. You know that phrase, “If you don’t like the weather, just wait a little while”? I had had always heard that for Ithaca, NY, and Scotland, and it’s certainly true for Sweden in the summer as well. Southern Sweden is covered in lush, green rolling hills and accented with bright flowers, and I guess you just can’t get those colors without a little rain, which we experienced last July.
After spending the first few days of our Sweden-Denmark trip in Stockholm, we made the six-hour drive south to Sankt Olof to stay with our Swedish friend, Elisabeth, and her husband and their toddler (just 3 months older than our son). We had fun on the drive down — outfitted in a Volvo by Carrentals.co.uk, we stopped in Granna and Laganland. Now we were excited to explore Osterlen (the Southeastern part of Skane) with Elisabeth.
We had two full sightseeing days with Elisabeth and her family, and she did an amazing job showing us Osterlen, an area that has long attracted Swedes looking to take a bucolic or beachy break from Malmo or Lund (where Elisabeth grew up). The first place she brought us to was Kivik, a charming fishing village. We loved walking around the town and seeing all the houses, as there were many in traditional Swedish architecture. And almost all of them had beautiful roses growing in the yard. The sky may have been gloomy but the colorful houses and roses made up for it.
Soon it was time for lunch, so we ate at Buhres Fisk, an award-winning seafood restaurant that imports its smoked fish all over Sweden. The restaurant burnt down in 2010 after being in Kivik for decades, but the new building is bright, airy and modern. Instead of the famous smoked fish, I ordered raksmorgas, which directly translates to “shrimp sandwich.” These open seafood sandwiches are very Swedish, and the shrimp had a delightful sweet flavor. The restaurant was distinctly upscale, but the service was cafeteria-style (although most dishes were made to order). This type of service is popular in Sweden — I’m not sure why but it definitely fits with the DIY, self-sufficient Swedish nature.
After lunch, we took a walk around the harbor. There was a playground a few feet away, so we took the toddlers there so they could burn off some energy before we set off to the next adventure…